Mexico City is big – really big – and about 90 percent of it isn’t a place you’d want to visit as a tourist. Here is a short description of the neighborhoods you’ll definitely want to visit while you’re in town.
Polanco
Polanco is the posh neighborhood. If you’re looking for Louis Vuitton and Cartier boutiques, this is where you’ll find them. You’ll also find some of the best restaurants in the city, like the acclaimed Pujol and Quintonil.
Polanco is a nice neighborhood for walking, in particular around the area called Polanquito, near Parque Lincoln. You’ll find a wide variety of restaurants, from Mexican to Italian, Greek and French, suitable for a wide variety of budgets. For specific recommendations, take a look here and here.
In addition to big international retailers, Polanco also offers boutiques selling unique items, many of them from Mexican designers. If you’re looking for something unique to remind you of your trip, stop by this shop. It specializes in scents made from Mexican products, and a visit is an experience all on it’s own.
Chapultepec Park
Chapultepec Park is a short walk from Polanco, depending on where in the park you want to go and where you’re starting from in Polanco. The park itself is an ideal place to go for a run or visit a museum. If you’re interested in history, the Chapultepec Castle and Anthropology Museum are not to be missed. If you prefer something more contemporary, the Museo Rufino Tamayo hosts contemporary art expositions, and the Museum of Modern Art has a beautiful sculpture garden.
La Zona Rosa
La Zona Rosa (literally “the pink zone”) is centrally located near Reforma Avenue, Mexico City’s main thoroughfare. While it was once known as the city’s red light district, these days it’s better known as Mexico City’s most gay friendly neighborhood. It’s also the home of many, many Korean restaurants.
If you’re interested in antiques, the Plaza del Angel on Calle Londres, just three blocks from the Angel of Independence, shouldn’t be missed. If you’re looking for silver, the Mercado Insurgentes is an indoor market, also on Calle Londres, just across the street from the Plaza del Angel.
If you’re visiting with children, be careful in this neighborhood. There is an overabundance of sex shops, and you’re more likely to see same-sex PDAs here than anywhere else in the city.
La Juarez
The Juarez Neighborhood was once an upscale residential neighborhood, and you’ll still see a few Porfirian mansions on its tree-lined streets. Many of them have been taken down however, and replaced with modern apartment buildings. This neighborhood has recently seen something of a renaissance, and it’s now home to some excellent restaurants, as well as yoga studios and galleries.
La Condesa
I think the Condesa Neighborhood is Mexico City’s answer to Greenwich Village. It’s supposed to be “alternative”, but at this point, couldn’t be more mainstream. It’s home to two big parks; Parque España and Parque Mexico. Calle Amsterdam circles Parque Mexico a block out from the park. You’ll find sidewalk cafes, juice bars, and boutiques throughout the neighborhood. If you’re exploring, Calle Amsterdam is a good place to start, and it’s also a good spot for a morning walk or run. Avenidas Tamaulipas and Nuevo Leon are home to an unusually high concentration of bars, so that’s a good place to start if you’re looking for a place to party. Calles Michoacan and Campeche also have lots of dining options.
La Roma
I often see La Roma and La Condesa grouped together in blog posts about Mexico City, but they have very different vibes. La Roma Neighborhood was actually a bit seedy until fairly recently. When people talk about La Roma they’re usually talking about Roma Norte. Roma Sur is getting better, but it hasn’t yet become as trendy as Roma Norte and can still be a bit seedy in some places. Similar to the Juarez, architecture in Roma Norte is characterized by a mix of Porfirian mansions and more modern apartment buildings.
If you’re looking to get a feel for the Roma Neighborhood, start at the Plaza Río de Janeiro. Just north of the plaza on Calle Orizaba, you’ll find one of the best sweets shops in the city, and a few doors up a healthy juice and food spot called Hungry Beast that’s worth checking out. Then head south on Orizaba. Take your time and walk down Colima and Alvaro Obregon, then keep heading south to Parque Luis Cabrera. You’ll find some great restaurants and unique boutiques.
El Centro Historico
Mexico City’s Centro Historico (literally, Historical Center) is a mixed bag. There are shady alleyways you’d do best to avoid just blocks away from major tourist spots like the Cathedral and the Palacio Nacional. There are museums and murals, and the stunning Art Deco Palacio de Bellas Artes. There are traditional cantinas, some of the best breakfast spots in the city, and the city’s most famous jazz bar, Zinco. You’ll find upscale boutiques with locally made wares and wedding dresses for $1,000 pesos.
The trick to having a good experience in el Centro is to plan out what you’re looking for in advance. The historical city was originally grouped according to guilds, and largely still is. So, if you’re looking for fabric, you’ll find most of the fabric stores close together. Same goes for wedding dresses, guitars, office supplies and most everything else.
One spot that is particularly worth a visit is the Hotel Downtown, which also houses the restaurant Azul Centro Historico, as well as several boutiques selling Mexican products that span everything from jewelry to huipiles (traditional garments) to pottery.
San Angel and Coyoacan
To the south of the city, you’ll find San Angel and Coyoacan. Both were originally independent towns with their own central squares and charming colonial architecture. Both are now swallowed up by the monster that is Mexico City. Both neighborhoods are good places for walking and exploring. For traditional artisanal wares, try the weekend market in San Angel. Coyoacan is known for the coyote fountain in the center of it’s main square, Frida Kahlo’s house, which is now a museum, and churros and hot chocolate.
Xochimilco
Even further south is Xochimilco. It’s not a particularly nice neighborhood and it’s hard to get to, but it is home to Mexico City’s remaining canals. The city was built on a lake, and at one point much of the city was connected by waterways. Today, Xochimilco is home to nurseries (for plants), and boats for hire that will take tourists and locals on a tour of the canals for the afternoon. To do it like a local, take a picnic to eat on the boat.
Xochimilco is also home to the Museo Dolores Olmedo. Once the home of the museum’s namesake, the museum showcases her personal art collection, which includes work by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.